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Stockholm-based Acne Jeans began in 1997 when creative director Jonny Johansson whipped up 100 pairs of jeans to give to friends. Other friends wanted more and the rest is history. Acne almost singlehandedly spawned the worldwide skinny jeans craze and now encompasses everything from simple tanks and T-shirts to cutting-edge tailoring and accessories. These are pieces that look like nothing else out there, yet will integrate themselves effortlessly into your wardrobe for years to come. As for the jeans: trust us, they're flawless. The high-waisted, straight-legged Tube is the shape of things to come.
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In the last two decades, Nicole Farhi has emerged as one of Britain’s leading designers. Her unique blend of easy and functional tailoring with luxurious, desirable separates and accessories has created a loyal following throughout the world.
Unstructured design is a distinctive feature of Farhi's work, as is the importance of understatement, attention to detail using subtle colors and textures. The collections reflect Farhi’s philosophy: “Nowadays the way we live means less of a partition between day and evening. Clothes need to be relaxed in the day yet sophisticated enough for the evening. We must mix them to suit ourselves.”
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Margiela has been called the J.D. Salinger of the fashion world and rightly so, as he refuses to be photographed and will only be interviewed by fax. He won't even put his name on his clothes, branding them instead with a blank label.
Margiela is perhaps the most underexposed designer around. But in another way, his designs are exposed in that his collections routinely reveal the designer's techniques & his interests in their very construction. With visible stitches, exposed hems, tailor's markings, and external shoulder pads, his collections never fail to surprise.
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Designer and former model Jane Mayle set up shop in 1998. She is the visionary behind Mayle, an unabashedly feminine line of clothing and accessories that’s dreamy in a forties-movie-heroine sort of way. Inspired by the style of Italian film star Monica Vitti, whose wardrobe defined feminine elegance; Mayle's retro-chic designs infuse curvy silhouettes with vintage charm. Featuring elaborate detailing and decadent fabrics, each piece seems to have a story behind it, making the wearer invariably feel part of Mayle’s personal narrative.
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Tokyo-based designer Akira Minagawa started his brand Mina in 1995, and changed the name to Mina Perhonen in 2003. In that time, Minagawa has become famous for his charming, hand-drawn prints (he has published several art books) and innovative use of textiles (he also creates furniture upholstery). Think of Mina Perhonen as Japan's answer to Marimekko, albeit designed with a distinctly Japanese avant-garde appeal.
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What originally started as a business venture that would allow founder John Whitledge to surf and travel the world became Trovata, an award-winning lifestyle brand. Centered on travel, art, education, and music, Trovata is redefining American style for its generation. Without formal design training, Whitledge developed Trovata’s first capsule collection of vintage inspired menswear that was quickly picked up by Barney’s New York and a handful of exclusive specialty stores. Shipping out of Whitledge’s Claremont McKenna dormitory in 2002, the company was established. With the help of three of his friends the collection grew in subsequent seasons, as the Trovata look was identified by its mix of East Coast prep with an easy, laid back West Coast feel.
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Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato began working for Issey Miyake in 1977, who helped her launch her own line in 1990. She first brought her collection to Paris in 2003 and has been quietly building street cred with cool girls in Paris, Los Angeles, and New York ever since. Her collections are faithful to her aesthetic, which is print-heavy with a healthy dose of manga-bohemian cuteness. Her pieces are often dramatic and bold, many with hand-drawn prints or full-on scenic landscapes. Chisato employs appliqué, embroidery, and patchwork quilting to design artful, quirky, and youthful creations that are both feminine and fun.
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