NYFW SS13: Monday
Monday, Monday, la, la, la, la,la,la la. Or so the song goes. I started the shows Monday afternoon with a trek back to the New York Penn Station Post Office for the 3.1 Phillip Lim show. I was smart enough this time to take the subway and arrived with plenty of time to chat with my seat mate Eva Chen about all things beauty and on-line shopping. The show notes explained that Lim was exploring a notion of “cut-up” a literary and musical technique, where ideas are written, then words are chosen at random to create a new meaning. Thus, the collection was full of garments that were manipulated and reassembled. The fabrics were literally cut-up and folded-in to create a push and pull tension between street and polish. Music is always a big inspiration, and here we saw rock-and-roll influence from every decade. The plaid of the punks, the tie-waist flannels and layering of grunge, a bit of metallic and animal print of Bowie, the shredded denim and crop tops of the 90s. I could do without quite so much mix-and-match, especially in the grunge department, preferring his pretty faded botanical and spotted pony prints in jumpsuits and pajama pants. He also got the mesh/organza memo. I’m not sure how we are all going to wear so much see-thru clothing next spring, but layered and appliquéd with animals is as good a place as any to start. I loved the re-imagined, softened-up moto jackets in corded silk and the shredded cotton surf pants. And we all know I am a total sucker for all things leopard print. So put me down for one of those jacquard jackets. After a dangerous hour of shopping in SoHo (Yayoi Kusama for Louis Vuitton anyone?!) I made my way to the westside to Pier 57 for the Zero + Maria Cornejo show. All my fabulous favorites were there, from Ikram to Kerry Diamond and Simon Doonan. The press release labeled the show “future primitive”, it’s about looking towards the future with a nod to the past. There was a newfound structure, the geometry of her shapes were more symmetrical. I loved the bonded scuba shapes, pod jackets, and oversized bamboo poncho and all the cinched waists. Crisp monochromatic linen and cotton played nicely against digitally printed draped silk and jacquard. Always the champion of urban luxury, this collection will allow the global woman to mix her wardrobe in unexpected ways.